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Condos need maintenance …

Everything built by man requires some maintenance at some point.

Even so-called maintenance-free homes require some attention. So when making the transition from renting to buying, one aspect of home ownership that must be considered carefully is maintenance. Renters enjoy few advantages over buyers, but one benefit of renting is that in most cases renters needn't worry about the expense of maintaining a property. Many first time buyers aren't ready to take on the hassles and expenses of yard work, gutter cleaning, painting and so on, and for this reason condos are a viable and interesting alternative. In the case of a condo, maintenance can be separated into two categories: owner's responsibilities and association responsibilities. These exact nature of these duties and responsibilities will vary from condo to condo, but there are a few rules of thumb. For example, certain retirement communities provide maid service as part of the condo, but most often the condo owner is responsible for cleaning his own unit. In most cases, the condo owner must clean the condo interior, including all windows which are reachable from the interior. The condo owner must clean of his or her private balcony or patio. Most renters are accustomed to this type of arrangement already. Unlike renters, condo owners own the appliances in the unit. Thus, the condo owner cleans and maintains all the appliances, but the condo owner also pays for repairs and replacements as needed. A condo owner has the power to pick his own appliances, but with that benefit comes the duty of maintaining that unit. In most older condos, the association supplies the heating and cooling to the unit, and the condo owner owns the convector or radiator (heat transfer appliance) in the unit. In new condos, the owner typically owns the HVAC (heat pump / air conditioner) that heats and cools his unit. Plumbing and electrical concerns remain for owners of single family homes and townhouses, but in all but a few rare cases the condo owner need only worry about systems that are outside the walls.  For example, the condo owner typically owns the bathroom vanity and the pipes supporting that vanity but not the pipes which supply water and take sewage away from the bathroom. A condo owner owns his kitchen cabinets, but not the electrical wires inside the wall that bring power to his kitchen appliances.
Julie Nesbitt
Relaxing in Old Town
In general, the condominium owner is responsible for his personal space, but the condo association is responsible for all common areas.  This includes maintaining and operating the elevators and outside doors.  In most cases this includes the windows. Most always, the association maintains the lawns, flowers and shrubs. The condo association maintains the roof. While the owner of a single family home must maintain his own driveway, a condo parking lot is maintained by the condominium association. The parking garage can be private, common, or common with assignments.  If the parking garage is common, with or without assignments, the condo association will clean and maintain the parking. A private garage is the domain of the condominium owner.

Review your docs

Ultimately, you'll want review your condo documents, charter and by-laws to determine exactly how your condo association interprets its domain.  Rest assured, a condo owner will have more to maintain than a renter, but significantly less responsibility than the owner of a single family residence or townhouse.

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For more information or to set up an appointment call Julie at (703)765-0300.

Tips for Basement Floors or concrete floors

Although moisture problems can be a concern for basement finishes, there are many types of flooring that are ideal for basement applications. The key to successful basement flooring installations is to ensure that the basement is dry and that there is a smooth, flat surface for the new finish material.

Moisture and humidity

Because the floor of your basement is below grade and the lowest surface within your house, it requires special considerations before flooring can be installed. If your basement has ever been susceptible to water infiltration and flooding, those problems must be remedied before flooring is installed. Sealing your basement from water and moisture infiltration can cost from several hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars or more. Humidity and condensation are other concerns. Because moist, humid air is heavy, it tends to sink to the lowest part of your house---your basement. There, warm, humid air can come in contact with relatively cool surfaces, such as a concrete slab floor, and condense. Keeping condensation in check during warm, humid months helps ensure that flooring remains stable and free from mold and mildew growth. Most likely, your existing heating and cooling system is equipped with a dehumidifier that maintains relative humidity (RH) levels between 30% and 60%, which the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and building codes recommend for a healthy indoor environment. A portable, plug-in unit for single-room use costs about $200 and includes a monitor to regulate the RH level.

Level floor surfaces

It's also critical to inspect your existing concrete basement floor and make adjustments for any noticeable slopes or flaws that might damage the new floor finish or affect its aesthetic appeal. Patch or fill minor cracks and flaws with an elastomeric sealant made especially for concrete. A 10-ounce tube runs from about $4 to $10 at home improvement centers. Use a 3-foot or longer bubble level to see if any sections of the floor slope more than a half-inch in 8 feet. Fill in low spots with a self-leveling compound, available at home improvement centers for about $30 for a 50-pound bag. For about $60 to $80 per day, rent a concrete sander to reduce high spots. Tile backerboard, made from cement or fiber-reinforced gypsum, can be used as a subfloor over your basement slab to create a smooth, level surface. Backerboard can be glued down or held in place with concrete nails. Backerboard costs about $11 for a 4x5-foot sheet. Allowing for waste, expect to pay about $500 for enough backerboard to cover the floor of a 600 sq. ft. basement. Once you have satisfied all potential moisture-related issues and created a smooth, level surface, you'll have many flooring choices for your basement retreat.

Carpeting

According to the NAHB Research Center's annual survey of builder practices, more than 28% of basement floors in newly built homes are finished with carpeting. "Most of our clients want carpet in the basement," says Sherrille Sabo, operations manager for COS Construction in Edwardsville, Ohio, a construction company that remodels about a half-dozen basements per year into finished living spaces. "It's warmer and adds a level of soundproofing." Low-pile carpets such as Berber or other looped varieties show less wear than cut-looped or shag-like carpeting and are less expensive; all or partial nylon blends also are more durable and less costly than all-natural options. Wall-to-wall carpeting is among the least expensive and easiest to install options for basement flooring. A mid-range nylon Berber carpet costs about $1 to $3 per sq. ft. With glued-down perimeter tack strips and a standard pad, plus professional labor, the cost to buy and install a new carpet is about $1,200 to $2,400 for a 600 sq. ft. basement. If you've addressed any moisture issues in the basement but are still concerned about dampness or the chances that liquid spills or pet accidents may occur, consider a pad that is made to block moisture from either seeping up into the carpet or seeping down through the pad to the concrete floor. Moisture-resistant pads are about 70% more expensive than standard pads. They may reduce cleanup chores, but they will not solve chronic moisture problems. Also, consider carpet tiles. Nylon pile 20-inch squares come in a variety of colors and styles and cost $2 to $4 per sq. ft. Most are made with integral pads and self-adhesive backings for easy, do-it-yourself installation.

Vinyl

Resilient vinyl flooring is durable, moisture-proof, and maintenance-free. Sheet vinyl comes in 12-foot-wide rolls that virtually eliminate seams. Self-sticking vinyl tiles are ideal for do-it-yourself installations. There are an enormous variety of colors and styles from which to choose. In general, thicker vinyl translates to higher quality and cost. Thicker vinyl can feature a textured surface, and some types have the appearance of real stone and wood. Vinyl installs easily over a concrete slab, but it's critical to make sure the surface is smooth, as imperfections are sure to show through and possibly damage the flooring. A thicker (and more expensive) grade of vinyl flooring may help hide slight bumps in the concrete. Sheet vinyl and vinyl tile can cost $1 to $5 per sq. ft. Figure another $1 to $2 per sq. ft. for professional installation, depending on the complexity of the basement configuration.

Ceramic tile

Ceramic tile installs readily over a concrete slab and the many styles and colors available make it a good designer's choice. Properly installed and maintained ceramic tiles should last as long as your house. In some below-grade applications, condensation may occur on the surface of ceramic tiles, making them slippery. If ceramic tile is your primary choice for your basement but condensation is a concern, consider glazed ceramic floor tiles with an anti-slip finish. Look for tiles that meet slip-resistance standards specified by the Americans with Disabilities Act. Costs for ceramic tile varies widely, depending on size, shape, and pattern. A standard domestic 12x12-inch ceramic tile might cost 80 cents per tile at home improvement center, while a highly decorative tile from Mexico or a porcelain stone tile from Italy can cost $10 per tile or far more. Professional installation adds $5 to $10 per sq. ft.

Engineered wood

Until the advent of engineered hardwood flooring, few builders or remodelers would recommend or risk installing a hardwood floor over a below-grade concrete surface. Because solid wood changes dimensions with fluctuations in temperature and humidity, the chances of warping and cracking were too great. In addition, there were few reliable options for installing wood flooring without traditional nails or screws. Engineered wood floors, however, provide a more stable substrate for the planks while delivering the look and feel of a solid wood floor. They feature a thin veneer layer of solid wood that is laminated to plywood backing. Plywood is more dimensionally stable than solid wood, allowing the planks to withstand temperature and moisture fluctuations without warping. Engineered hardwood planks are installed one of two ways. Some varieties are designed to be glued to the basement floor using an industrial adhesive. Others are "floated" over a layer of thin foam sheeting; the planks are held in place by a system of interlocking ends and edges. Engineered wood planks are priced from $2 to $20 per sq. ft. Their factory-finished veneer is virtually maintenance-free. Installation is about $4 to $5 per sq. ft., regardless of whether the planks are glued down or floated.

Laminate flooring

Laminate flooring has similar construction to engineered wood flooring, but the top veneer is a layer of tough film covered with plastic resins. Laminate flooring mimics the look of wood, stone, and ceramic tile. The core layers of laminate flooring are dimensionally stable; some varieties are treated to resist moisture and make good choices for basement applications. Laminate flooring planks and tiles "snap" together and float over the concrete floor on a foam pad. The flooring sells for $3 to $5 per sq. ft. at home improvement centers; installation adds $4 to $5 per sq. ft.

Concrete

One of the simplest and least expensive options for finishing a basement concrete slab is to paint or stain the slab. A one-gallon can of either coating option is about $30 and covers about 80-100 sq. ft. If you elect to use paint, consider an acrylic formula with slip-resistant surface finish. Assuming the basement concrete slab is unsealed and still porous, a colored stain will likely penetrate fairly well and hold its color for several years before reapplication. A concrete paint probably will show wear in a high-traffic areas, and will require a reapplication every 3-5 years. An epoxy coating system, which combines a solvent-based adhesive coating with decorative (and slip-resistant) color chips, is far tougher than a concrete paint or stain. It costs about 3 times as much as a gallon of paint or stain but covers four times the area and leaves a tough, industrial-looking finish. Another option is to cover the concrete slab with an additional, thin layer of concrete that has been pigmented with color. A thin-coat can also be stamped with a pattern to resemble brick, flagstone, and even wood planks. Because the color is throughout the coating, it will never wear away. Expect to pay $2 to $3 per sq. ft. for a thin-coat installation. Rich Binsacca has been writing about housing and home improvement since 1987. He is the author of 12 books on various home-related topics, is currently a contributing editor for Builder and EcoHome magazines, and has written articles for such magazines as Remodeling, Home, and Architectural Record, among several others. His first house in Boise featured a finished basement with two bedrooms, a laundry area, and the mechanical room; he had to dismantle a Queen-sized box spring to get it down the stairs.

7 Smart Strategies for a Kitchen Remodel

If you're contemplating a kitchen remodel, you're also weighing a considerable investment. But a significant portion of the upfront costs may be recovered by the value the project brings to your home. Kitchen remodels in the $50,000 range recouped 76% of the initial project cost at the home's resale, according to recent data from Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs. Value Report. To make sure you maximize your return, consider these seven smart kitchen remodeling strategies.

1. Establish your priorities

Van Dorn Village
Van Dorn Village is located in Franconia VA
Simple enough? Not so fast. The National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) recommends spending at least six months planning before beginning the work. That way, you can thoroughly evaluate your priorities and won't be tempted to change your mind during construction. Contractors often have clauses in their contracts that specify additional costs for amendments to original plans. Planning points to consider include:
  • Avoid traffic jams. A walkway through the kitchen should be at least 36 inches wide, according to the NKBA. Work aisles for one cook should be a minimum of 42 inches wide and at least 48 inches wide for households with multiple cooks.
  • Consider children. Avoid sharp, square corners on countertops, and make sure microwave ovens are installed at the heights recommended by the NKBA---3 inches below the shoulder of the principle user but not more than 54 inches from the floor.
  • Access to the outside. If you want to easily reach entertaining areas, such as a deck or a patio, factor a new exterior door into your plans.
Because planning a kitchen is complex, consider hiring a professional designer. A pro can help make style decisions and foresee potential problems, so you can avoid costly mistakes. In addition, a pro makes sure contractors and installers are sequenced properly so that workflow is cost-effective. Expect fees around $50 to $150 per hour, or 5% to 15% of the total cost of the project.

2. Keep the same footprint

No matter the size and scope of your planned kitchen, you can save major expense by not rearranging walls and by locating any new plumbing fixtures near existing plumbing pipes. Not only will you save on demolition and reconstruction, you'll greatly reduce the amount of dust and debris your project generates.

3. Match appliances to your skill level

Falls Church realtors
Byron condominium is located in Falls Church VA
A six-burner commercial-grade range and luxury-brand refrigerator might make eye-catching centerpieces, but be sure they fit your lifestyle, says Molly Erin McCabe, owner of A Kitchen That Works design firm in Bainbridge Island, Wash. "It's probably the part of a kitchen project where people tend to overspend the most." The high price is only worth the investment if you're an exceptional cook. Otherwise, save thousands with trusted brands that receive high marks at consumer review websites, like www.ePinions.com and www.amazon.com, and resources such as Consumer Reports.

4. Create a well-designed lighting scheme

Some guidelines:
  • Install task lighting, such as recessed or track lights, over sinks and food prep areas; assign at least two fixtures per task to eliminate shadows. Under-cabinet lights illuminate clean-up and are great for reading cookbooks. Pendant lights over counters bring the light source close to work surfaces.
  • Ambient lighting includes flush-mounted ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, and track lights. Consider dimmer switches with ambient lighting to control intensity and mood.

5. Focus on durability

kitchen at Turnberry Tower
Quality designs for each unit
"People are putting more emphasis on functionality and durability in the kitchen," says McCabe. That may mean resisting bargain prices and focusing on products that combine low-maintenance with long warranty periods. "Solid-surface countertops [Corian, Silestone] are a perfect example," adds McCabe. "They may cost a little more, but they're going to look as good in 10 years as they did the day they were installed." If you're not planning to stay in your house that long, products with substantial warranties can become a selling point. "Individual upgrades don't necessarily give you a 100% return," says Frank Gregoire, a real estate appraiser in St. Petersburg, Fla. "But they can give you an edge when it comes time to market your home for sale" if other for-sale homes have similar features.

6. Add storage, not space

kitchen
Kitchen
To add storage without bumping out walls:
  • Specify upper cabinets that reach the ceiling. They may cost a bit more, but you'll gain valuable storage space. In addition, you won't have to worry about dusting the tops.
  • Hang it up. Install small shelving units on unused wall areas, and add narrow spice racks and shelves on the insides of cabinet doors. Use a ceiling-mounted pot rack to keep bulkier pots and pans from cluttering cabinets. Add hooks to the backs of closet doors for aprons, brooms, and mops.

7. Communicate effectively---and often

Having a good rapport with your project manager or construction team is essential for staying on budget. "Poor communication is a leading cause of kitchen projects going sour," says McCabe. To keep the sweetness in your project:
  • Drop by the project during work hours as often as possible. Your presence assures subcontractors and other workers of your commitment to getting good results.
  • Establish a communication routine. Hang a message board on-site where you and the project manager can leave each other daily communiques. Give your email address and cell phone number to subs and team leaders.
  • Set house rules. Be clear about smoking, boom box noise levels, which bathroom is available, and where workers should park their vehicles.
Consumers spend more money on kitchen remodeling than any other home improvement project, according to the Home Improvement Research Institute, and with good reason. They're the hub of home life, and a source of pride. With a little strategizing, you can ensure your new kitchen gives you years of satisfaction. John Riha has written six books on home improvement and hundreds of articles on home-related topics. He's been a residential builder, the editorial director of the Black & Decker Home Improvement Library, and the executive editor of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. His standard 1968 suburban house has been an ongoing source of maintenance experience.

Do you have polybutylene pipes in your home?

Van Dorn Village
Van Dorn Village is located in Franconia VA
Polybutylene is a type of plastic resin that was widely used in the manufacture of water supply piping from 1978 until 1995. During that time polybutylene pipes were often considered the pipes of the future because they were easy to install and cost less than other materials such as traditional copper piping. Polybutylene piping systems were used both for underground water mains and for interior water distribution. Most probably, polybutylene piping was installed in about one in every four or five homes built during the years in which the pipe was manufactured.

Does your home have polybutylene?

You should probably contact an expert or have a home inspection if your home was constructed from 1978 to 1995. It's easy to see if you have copper pipes, but it might not be obvious if you have polybutylene pipes as opposed to PVC (polyvinyl-chloride). In exterior uses polybutylene underground water mains are usually blue, but may be gray or black. Your water main near the shutoff valve is attached to the end of the water main. Or, you can check the pipes at the water meter on the city street, near the city water main. Experts suggest checking both ends of the pipe because there are cases where copper pipe enters the home, and poly pipe is at the water meter. This indicates that both pipes were used and connected somewhere underground. Inside your home you can find polybutylene near the water heater, running across the ceiling in unfinished basements, and coming out of the walls to feed sinks and toilets. Warning: In some regions of the country plumbers used copper "stub outs" where the pipe exits a wall to feed a fixture, so seeing copper here does not mean that you do not have poly. If this all sounds a little confusing, contact an expert.

Will the Pipes Fail?

Olympus condos
The metal backsplace contrasts nicely with the dark green counter and natural wood cabinetry in this kitchen at the Olympus in West End Aleandria.
Steven Reiber, HDR Engineering, American Water Works Association Research Foundation writes, "A series of reports have suggested that increased use of choloramines accelerates corrosion and degradation of some metals and elastomers common to distribution plumbing and appurtenances. With regard to elastomers, the study showed that with few exceptions, solutions of chloramines (either monochloramine or dichloramine) produced greater material swelling, deeper and more dense surface cracking, a more rapid loss of elasticity, and greater loss of tensile strength than equivalent concentrations of free chlorine." Throughout the 1980's lawsuits were filed complaining of allegedly defective manufacturing and defective installation causing hundreds of millions of dollars in damages. Although the manufacturers have never admitted that poly is defective, they have agreed to fund the Class Action settlement with an initial and minimum amount of $950 million. You'll have to contact the appropriate settlement claim company to find out if you qualify under this settlement. The truth is that the scientific evidence of failures is a little shaky. Some people believe that oxidants in the public water supply, such as chlorine, react with the polybutylene piping and acetal fittings causing them to scale and flake and become brittle. If this is true, this causes micro-
Bathoom at the Duke
Bathroom at the Duke at Old Town
fractures. Micro-fractures reduce the basic structural integrity of the system. Thus, the pipes are at risk of becoming weak and may fail without warning causing damage to the building structure and personal property. On the other hand, some believe that other factors may also contribute to the failure of polybutylene systems, such as improper installation, but it is virtually impossible to detect installation problems throughout an entire system. But in the end it's about your tolerance for risk. If you have polybutylene pipes, you owe it to yourself to have nothing less than a risk assessment. For more information or to set up an appointment call Nesbitt Realty at (703)765-0300.

Are you planning to buy or rent a home built before 1978?

A Single family house in Westover
Westover in Arlington
Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains lead (called lead-based paint). Lead-based paint is perfectly safe when treated properly, but lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly. Lead is especially dangerous when ingested. Lead poses a greater risk to small children who might ingest paint chips. Recognizing that families have a right to know about lead-based paint and potential lead hazards in their homes, Congress directed EPA and HUD to work together to develop disclosure requirements for sales and leases of older housing. These requirements became effective in 1996. Federal law requires that individuals receive certain information before renting or buying a pre-1978 housing:
  • LANDLORDS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before leases take effect. Leases must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint.
  • SELLERS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before selling a house. Sales contracts must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint. Buyers have up to ten days to check for lead hazards.

Renovating, repairing or painting a home, child care facility or school containing lead-based paint

Condo in River Towers
River Towers in Alexandria
Beginning in April 2010, federal law will require that contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 must be certified and follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. Until that time, EPA recommends that anyone performing renovation, repair, and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in pre-1978 homes, child care facilities and schools follow lead-safe work practices. The contractor should follow these three simple procedures:
  • Contain the work area
  • Minimize dust
  • Clean up throughly
To learn more check out the following EPA pamphlets on renovation, repair and painting:
  • Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers and Schools (PDF) (20 pp, 3.7MB)
    Single-Family in Arlington Heights
    Arlington Heights in Arlington
  • Contractors: Lead Safety During Renovation (PDF) (2 pp, 1.5MB) HTML version

Cabinetry: The Backbone of a Hardworking Kitchen

This is new kitchen in at Potomac Branch.
This is new kitchen in at Potomac Branch.
As kitchens have become rooms for doing more than just cooking, the need to maximize space has become paramount. That’s where cabinets come in handy. Learn about home owners’ options in using these to creative aesthetically pleasing storage solutions. As the number of kitchen accessories has increased, cabinetry has become both a major necessity and a challenge. That’s because kitchens have become a place for additional tasks besides cooking — entertaining, bill paying, and homework, for example. Also, the cost of cabinetry can be staggering, sometimes as much as 50 to 60 percent of a total kitchen redo. When it comes to working with buyers or sellers on improving a kitchen, your goal should be to help them understand the pros and cons of overhauling cabinet storage — or whether they should do anything dramatic, as there are ways they can improve cabinetry without replacing it. The key questions home owners should ask are:
  • Do the kitchen and its existing cabinetry appeal visually?
  • How well does the cabinetry work to sufficiently store pots and pans, dishes, glassware, cutlery, spices, cookbooks, and other cooking and entertaining accessories?
Based on those responses, they can decide whether to undertake a limited redo or embark on an extensive transformation. Here’s how they can proceed:

Partial Tweak

If a layout works and home owners like their current appliances and surfaces, sometimes they can just reface cabinet fronts with newer materials such as popular cherry, maple, or bamboo. Other times, still less is needed and the fronts can be retained and the knobs or pulls changed out to a more stylish brushed or satin nickel. If space has been wasted in the room, they also might be able to find a place to construct a walk-in pantry that has easy-to-access shelves with specialized inserts to keep everything accessible but out of sight behind a full-height wood or obscured glass door. The latter can provide visual information about what’s inside without home owners having to keep contents meticulously ordered, says Chicago designer Tom Segal of Kaufman Segal Design. Pantries can vary in size from a basic 2-by-2-foot space to a more generous 4-by-4 with room for shelves on three sides and space to maneuver, or an even bigger 4 by 8 feet with outlets for extra appliances and a secondary sink, says architect David Barbour, whose eponymous firm is based in Bridgeport, Conn. Partial redos may cost just half of what a total overhaul would, he says.

Total Gut

When it comes to replacing cabinets completely because they’re worn or inefficient, home owners have a choice of three major options. They can go for the crème de la crème of custom at the top, semicustom in the middle, and stock at the budget end. The choice depends in part on the level of quality of other items in the room — appliances, countertops, flooring, backsplashes, and lighting — as well as the home’s overall value and how long home owners plan to remain. There’s little point in putting an $115,000 kitchen in a $350,000 home or going through the expense and hassle if home owners will stay put for only a few years, says Segal, who’s redone both clients’ and his own kitchens. He and other design experts recommend not spending more than 15 percent of a home’s value on a kitchen redo. So for that $350,000 home, he advises keeping the budget limited to a maximum of $52,500. The best way to start is for home owners to add up the linear feet of their existing cabinetry to be sure they’ll gain as much or more storage and then decide, probably with professional expertise, where to locate each type of storage — for example, spices and knives adjacent to an oven, Segal says. Tall, deep cabinets with pull-out shelves make efficient use of space and can be an alternative to a walk-in pantry, if the area of the kitchen is limited. Home owners should also decide whether they want drawers or cabinets — depending on how they like to store their belongings — and if they have enough room to include an island with base cabinetry. The best-designed islands allow 42 inches all around to navigate, measure 36 inches long and 24 inches wide, and have a 12-inch overhang on at least one side to make it work as an eating,  bill paying, or homework center, says building contractor and licensed remodeling expert Philip A. Beaubien, whose Beaubien Construction is based in Santa Barbara, Calif. With all this information in hand, home owners should be able to decide which of the following three levels to go with: ▪ Custom cabinets are constructed from scratch to a room’s specific layout for a seamless built-in look with no gaps between boxes. Most custom manufacturers such as Wood-Mode, Fine Custom Cabinetry and Rutt Handcrafted Cabinetry offer an extensive array of woods, finishes, and custom paint colors; door styles, such as flat or with some type of raised paneling or perhaps glass; cabinet or drawer depths; varied styles and materials for the pulls or knobs; and a large number of specialized cabinet organizers to keep specific items in place. Custom cabinets also come with better exposed hinges for a tighter fit and smoother draw glides, some of which may retract on their own. Beaubien prefers custom cabinets for their handmade appearance. ▪ Semicustom cabinets are manufactured in a large range of sizes based on 3-inch increments, and numerous materials and finishes are available — just not as many as for the custom option, says Segal. While they typically present a seamless look and fit together well, adjustments sometimes are needed for a specific layout, which may bring additional costs. Hinges also are typically concealed, which means a less-tight fit, he says. Home owners should verify specifics so they don’t end up spending so much to adjust them that the final price is close to a custom cabinet. Segal went with a semicustom design to save funds when he remodeled his kitchen. He found that with careful planning he gave up little and gained a quality product that should last years. ▪ Stock cabinets are the equivalent of off-the rack — or shelf — choices made in ready-made sizes, with fewer possibilities to pick among. They’re widely available at big-box stores like Lowe’s (a REALTOR Benefits® Partner), Home Depot, and IKEA. In kitchens with an uncomplicated layout or for home owners who are content with basics that will function well and help lower their budget, stock cabinets can be a good solution. Barbour likes to look first at these options, then have a carpenter add moldings to conceal gaps and lighting. He recommends carefully choosing the best stock boxes available—those from well-crafted wood versus composition or pressed board, which won’t wear as well. It’s also important to have sturdy shelves within — at least three-quarters of an inch thick — that don’t extend longer than 30 to 48 inches to avoid sagging. While Beaubien doesn’t use stock in most kitchen projects, he finds them acceptable for garage storage. They also can be a wise choice for a vacation home where home owners spend less time indoors, Segal says. Another way to cut costs when going with any of the three choices is to incorporate some open shelves above countertops, which can sometimes accomplish what a closed cabinet could at a quarter of the cost, Barbour says. They also allow home owners to see everything stored at a glance and add instant color and pattern. Of course, the downside is a continual need to keep the contents neat. The bottom line: Home owners should make their decision based on their home’s price, how long they plan to stay in it, how complicated or simple their kitchen layout is, what they’re storing, and their overall kitchen priorities. If having an expensive restaurant-style range and marble countertops are at the top of their wish list, they may want to scale back their cabinet budget. The decision should suit them rather than the next buyer. January 2013 | By Barbara Ballinger

A Financial Plan for Your Home

You probably already have a financial plan for yourself in place. Most likely you sat down with an advisor at some point to set up a budget and diversify your investments. Or maybe you did it yourself online or at the dining room table. Either way, smart move. But what about your home specifically, probably the biggest investment you'll ever make in your life? Did you really take everything into account: repairs and upgrades, the mortgage, insurance, and taxes? Probably not. Your house requires a financial plan of its own. Spend a weekend creating one. Once you have a handle on your home's expenses you can devise a long-term strategy that'll let you live there for years with maximum enjoyment and minimum anxiety. These are the four central elements you need to address.

The mortgage: Paying it---and then some

Yes, you already shell out a lot for your mortgage, but can you pay more? Even a little extra each month can add up. Let's say you have $200,000 outstanding principal and a 20-year fixed-rate mortgage at 5%. Your monthly payment is $1,319.91. But if you can manage to pay another $100 a month, you'll save $14,887 in interest. Run the numbers for yourself. Alan D. Kahn, a financial planner in Syosset, N.Y., likes the idea of early payoff because lowering debt leaves you free to spend money elsewhere later on. There's an emotional benefit as well. It can feel awfully good to own your house outright as soon as possible. And don't fret too much about losing the mortgage interest deduction come tax time. Toward the tail end of the life of a loan most of your payment is going to the principal, not the interest. Nevertheless, the same extra $100 might also go into a retirement plan every month, or be put aside for the inevitable home repairs (more on those later). Michael Kay, a financial planner in Livingston, N.J., says while a debt-free life may be enormously important to your peace of mind, an extra $1,200 toward your child's college fund every year may feel even better. It's about what's ultimately important to you, both emotionally and financially.

Insurance: Protecting your property

You'll want homeowners insurance with full replacement coverage in case your house is burned to the ground. This sounds simple, but be careful on the calculation. Remember that you own a house as well as the land on which it sits. So even though you bought your home for $300,000, it may cost only $100,000 to rebuild it. Your policy limits should reflect this. The differences are regional. Where land is at a premium, like much of Southern California, a higher percentage of the purchase cost is for the property rather than the structure. Where land is cheap, like much of North Dakota, most of the value of a new house is the house itself. Don't be deceived by shifts in market values. You may have bought a $1.2 million townhouse in Florida during the boom that now may only sell for $600,000. But the replacement cost of the townhouse hasn't changed much, so you can't cut insurance costs that way. Do, however, try to cut costs by asking your insurance agent about discounts. Making structural improvements, such as adding storm shutters, can lead to lower rates. Membership is certain groups, such as AARP or veterans' organizations, entitles some policyholders to breaks on premiums as well.

Repairs and renovations: By choice or necessity

Throughout the life of your house, you'll be making two kinds of changes. The first is the fun kind, like a marble floor for the living room. The second is the essential, behind-the-scenes change: a new water heater. You don't have a choice about when you'll do the latter, but you can prepare for it financially. It's a good idea to have a rainy-day fund. Start with the inspection report you received when you bought the house. Did the inspector indicate that you would need a new roof in five years? A new furnace in 10? Get estimates on what these repairs will cost and start saving. Consider ongoing non-emergency maintenance too. Do you live in New England? Price a snow blower and get bids from plow services. Resist the temptation to take care of everything with home equity loans, which defeat efforts to pay off the mortgage early. As for the discretionary upgrades, act prudently. Matthew P. Havens, a financial planner in Hingham, Mass., has seen too many people rationalizing lavish upgrades as an investment when they really were lifestyle decisions. According to Remodeling magazine, an upscale major kitchen upgrade, for example, could cost nearly $112,000, but only about 63% of that will be recouped in the home's resale value. This isn't to say you shouldn't upgrade. If you can afford to redo your bathrooms, go ahead. Just don't confuse your necessary repairs (new oil furnace---about $4,000) with your discretionary upgrades (Viking range---$6,000 and up).

Taxes: (Almost) no way around them

Taxes are an essential part of your home's financial plan. The bank that holds your mortgage may already handle your real estate taxes with an escrow account. If so the expense is built into your monthly mortgage payment. Check your statements or call the lender. Otherwise create a dedicated fund for property taxes, which can run into the thousands of dollars annually. You may be able to reduce your tax burden by getting a reassessment. Do your homework first. Are comparable houses taxed less than yours? Ask the local assessor what formula is used to set tax rates. Kay, the New Jersey financial planner, researched and then challenged the assessed value of his own home and got a 15% rollback. If you're in a special group, you might get some help from state or local programs. Check around to see what's available in your area. New York State, for example, has its Star Program for giving senior citizens some relief from school-related property taxes. Richard J. Koreto is a freelance writer. He has been editor of several professional financial magazines and is the author of "Run It Like a Business," a practice management book for financial planners. He and his wife own a pre-Civil War house in Rockland County, N.Y.